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10
Feb 10

Milling party!

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Thank GOD our mill came with this headbanded, smiling man. He really made grinding corn and spelt on a Saturday night more fun than I imagine my commoner ancestors had it.

Of course, that’s fellow localvore Ryan, and Kristi on the hand crank. The mill is actually my brother’s. Liam, 25, a former Marine and Iraq war veteran and current out-of-control new-agey yoga teacher, Earth chakra seeker, raw foodist type has apparently been grinding his own flour for years. Who knew? Which is just to say, get to know your siblings. Because who knows what’s changed since we were all kids together. And they might have a mill that you might happen to need.

Ryan is holding the mill because this Ebay special kind of shook itself off of the counter, where it was clamped. But it made our milling party of five really feel like a party. Because people were always switching off, and no one was ever left alone, grinding, grinding, while the sound of laughter and clinking glasses floated in from the other room.

Members of our party each brought a few quarts each of whatever they wanted milled. The spelt milled easily down with one pass through the mill, while the harder wheats (like the Hadley wheat) we choose to put through twice. And, miraculously, the dent corn was ground down no problem into something that looks like it will make a very hearty polenta or porridge.

Only twice did someone (me!) pull the hopper off the rest of the thing and send grain flying all over. Here, enjoy some dark scenes from a mid-winter grain milling dinner party:


24
Jan 10

The grain CSA hath arrived

The grain CSA we bought from Pioneer Valley Heritage Grains has finally come in. We split our share down the middle. What follows is what is in a whole share, and what follows that are some scenes from the efforts to make some order of it all. Yes, those are pillowcases we are storing the grains in. They tell us that because these grains have not been industrially dehydrated, they need to breath otherwise they’ll mold.

Also, we’re in the market for an inexpensive (or free!) mill. Any type, really, but one of the Kitchenaid attachments would be great.

  • 30lbs of wheat (spring and winter wheat)
  • 10lbs of black beans
  • 10lbs of oats
  • 20lbs of corn
  • 5lbs of barley
  • 6lbs of rye
  • 15lbs of spelt
  • 4lbs of emmer

17
Jan 10

Eating locally in winter: It’s just not that hard. In fact, it’s possibly easier than eating locally in spring and early summer

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Kristi went to the Winter Farmer’s Market in Wayland yesterday. This is what it looks like there, in mid-January. An abundance of food, not just of the root variety, but fresh and green and vibrant, as well.

Sometimes in the spring and early summer, when the markets start up and the CSA starts rolling in, I experience this guilty sensation. I want to just dive into full-on local eating, but you can’t really eat greens, garlic scapes and strawberries for breakfast, lunch and dinner. It’s just not enough calories.

The nice thing about the deep winter is that you can count some serious local calories to be the backbone of a meal. Like potatoes, sweet potatoes, winter squashes, beets, turnips, kohlrabi. Then fresh and green things are welcome additions.

So I have a bone to pick with consumers and with farmers/infrastructure builders. Consumers: it is not difficult to buy 50lbs of potatoes (for example) and tuck them away in a reasonably potato-friendly spot in your home. Farmers/People with Resources and Power: It would be even better if YOU invested in root cellars and stored the food for us. Then we could be sure that our carrots and onions were well preserved. And we could get our asses out to you, or you could get our turnips to us here in the city. [Mental blip: Perhaps we need municipal root cellars.]

Last bit of this for everyone: It’s not hard to eat locally and well in the winter. With events like the Wayland Farmer’s Market, it doesn’t even require the advance planning or upfront capital of a winter CSA.


4
Jan 10

Souperbowl II: Hotter than last year

sbowllogoPlease come to the second annual Souperbowl! In fact, go buy your ticket now!

The good news is that we will have more soups (6 or 7 even!), delicious locally baked bread, locally brewed beer, locally made cheese and locally pickled pickles. There is no bad news (unless you count the fact that Kristi and I will likely not be trying our hand at a soup again this year. A sad year for chili lovers indeed).

We’re still organizing the menu, but we’ve heard early rumors of matzoh ball soup. Vegans and veggievores will be well-represented. Take a gander at last year’s menu for a preview of what to expect.

The stolen idea* here is that we demonstrate just how much is available in terms of local food even in the darkest heart of winter,  that we stay in touch with each other, and that we  eat and drink and be merry and put the final nail in the casket of January. Bring on February!

Here are the deets (More to follow, like the menu which our soupwrights are hard at work finalizing):

  • Sunday, January 31
  • 4 p.m.
  • Haley House Bakery Cafe, 12 Dade St., Dudley Square, Roxbury
  • $15

*Props to the Mad River Localvore Project out of Vermont for the inspiration for this event.


18
Oct 09

A couple pretty little apple tarts

tartApple picking with another couple this weekend = 107 pounds of apples. What were we thinking?

Fortunately, Ryan and Erik have the bulk of them.

The first dent in our gigantic store of apples came with Kristi’s first-of-the-season apple tart. Isn’t she a beauty? She made it with this Smitten Kitchen recipe, and while it’s not exactly dump-and-stir, it was fairly easy and super delicious. She made it with only a sprinkle of sugar and without the glaze the recipe calls for. The crust has a flakiness not usually achieved in this kitchen. I look forward to it tomorrow at work with a slice of cheddar and a cup of tea.

Last year we also went to this same orchard, somewhere just outside of Haverhill. It’s called Fay’s Farm and it was as uncrowded as could be. Apples were $1 per pound. There was even a picnic table for lunch eating and woods for peeing. And leaves for peeping and apples for tasting aplenty. Oh, but, it’s WINTRY MIXING today so who knows if there will be any further autumn apple picking days left this year.

orchardkristiapples


9
Oct 09

Adventures in local eating: VT + NH

diner

We traveled to Stowe, Vt., last weekend to witness the wedding of an old childhood friend. Here she is having her shoes photographed. They were very special shoes.

On our way up, weimg_5532 stopped at the Farmer’s Diner in Quechee. Basically every single item on the menu is locally sourced. Like not just the stuff you’d expect, but also beans and grains. I thought I’d died and gone to heaven because I enjoyed an entirely local Reuben. Does anyone know how long it’s been since I’ve been reunited with my old friend, the Reuben? It’s been a long time.

Kristi has some dish called, I shit you not, Cock and Fire. It was Misty Knoll chicken in BBQ sauce in some kind of rollup arrangement.  The wrap needed to have been grilled or warmed or something. They also had these delicious looking maple syrup and Strafford Organic Creamery milkshakes on the menu. We planned to order one for dessert but were tripped up by the blueberry cobbler.

yogurtWe stopped at the Concord, NH food coop on our way home and not only found Kombucha dispensed from, like, a keg, to be purchased in bulk, but glass bottled yogurt from a local dairy. I don’t know if this will happen any time soon, but consider this my effort to enter the idea into the collective consciousness.


21
Sep 09

Another winter CSA Option - with oranges

The Enterprise Winter CSA works by utilizing crops stored locally, then gradually expanding its reach to small, organic farms down the east coast as the winter drones on and on and on. And on.

We did it last year until our regular CSA started up, from about January through May. Which meant that we got a big (pretty huge, actually) box of veggies every week. At first, there were still things like Massachusetts apples, potatoes, winter squash, onions, garlic, celeriac, parsnips and turnips. But as stores of these started to dwindle, other stuff started to take its place. Like kale from Pennsylvania and cherry tomatoes from the Carolinas and oranges and grapefruit from Florida.

Just as I was robbed  - robbed - of the true apple eating experience as a school child, so was I robbed of true citrus until last winter. Many of you New England kids may have had access to real, crisp, fresh, sweet native apples as children. And it’s not as though I didn’t technically have access. What I definitely had were thousands and thousands of dull, waxy, bruised, warm, mealy Red Deliciouses from Washington via Grand Union supermarkets. But I’d venture to say that many of you have never tried the sort of oranges and grapefruits that small organic growers produce because it’s not as though you might even have a tree in your yard next to the apple tree that you also happen to have in your yard. Just so you know, the oranges in our share were transcendent kisses from a benevolent god.

I know these were controversial last year. Some folks felt this was violating the spirit of trying to eat locally year round, since there was still plenty of meat and potatoes ’round here. But the share was economical and largely ethical and, because we had it delivered via Metro Pedal Power, it was kind of effortless. We didn’t have to schlep out to pick it up and there was basically always something to eat in the house. 

Here are the deets:

  • The winter/spring season runs 6 months for a total of 25 weeks, from December 1, 2009 through May 21, 2010.
  • The first payment is due December 1.  However, some pickup sites will likely fill up this season, so they recommend that you reserve a spot now.  You can do so either by paying your first installment now, or by sending a $100 deposit to the farm now to hold a spot (this amount will be credited toward your first payment).  Because demand will be high, they can’t guarantee you a spot until we receive a deposit.
  • Here’s the web form for signing up 
  • Here are some FAQs

6
Aug 09

Late blight: A weak link in the local food chain

Apparently a major cause of the late blight that’s wiping out tomato and potato crops across the Northeast are well-intentioned home gardeners. Well, what this argues (from Growing for Market via Chelsea Green) is that home gardeners who bought wee little tomato plants from Wal-Mart, Lowe’s, Home Depot and Kmart were buying from a centralized, industrial nursery in the South. The lack of biological diversity therein, combined with a centralized, industrial knack for incubating devastating disease and spreading hither and yon is crippling our small farmers (oh, and there won’t be enough heavenly, delicious, red, round tomatoes for us).

I’m posting the whole thing because I think it’s worth reading and because I support the idea (of course) that we need to scale back production and decentralize. In all things. (P.S. I’m writing this on an artisanal Mac laptop, the profits of which went equally to the corporate bitches at the top and the factory workers who assembled it…)

There’s irony in the fact that many backyard gardeners who wanted to grow their own food — the ultimate in local, as they say — went to big-box retailers to buy vegetable transplants started a thousand miles away. The irony is made bitter by the fact that those transplants are now being blamed for an epidemic of plant disease that is devastating farms and gardens all over the Northeast and mid-Atlantic. The disease is late blight, which is a common problem in August and September for tomato and potato growers throughout the United States. But it has never appeared as early as this year — mid-June — nor spread as far, with crop losses reported from Maine to South Carolina and as far west as Ohio and West Virginia.

Hundreds of tomato and potato fields are being plowed down in an attempt to stop the spread of the disease, causing tremendous financial hardship to farms that are already struggling from cold, rainy weather. The customers of those farms will have to buy their tomatoes and potatoes from someplace else, possibly someplace a long way from being local.

William Fry, professor of plant pathology at Cornell University, told the New York Times that one cause of the rapid spread of the disease was hundreds of thousands of tomato plants sold at Wal-Mart, Lowe’s, Home Depot and Kmart stores, grown at a Bonnie Plants greenhouse in the South. Bonnie Plants recalled all remaining tomato plants from the retailers on June 26, a move that a company spokesman said cost more than $1 million in sales. The company also denied liability for the spread of the disease, saying that only five of the recalled plants showed signs of late blight. Whether there is any culpability in this incident is not the point. The issue is that the plant distribution system is much like the food distribution system and is, therefore, a weak link in the local food chain.

Bonnie Plants started 91 years ago in Alabama as a grower of field-grown vegetable plants for Southern farmers. Over the years, it switched to potted plant production and expanded, but still remained a regional supplier. In the 1980s, as mass-market garden centers proliferated, Bonnie Plants “saw an opportunity to increase sales at an even greater pace,” according to the company’s web site. “In 2009, we have 62 greenhouse production facilities located in 38 different states. 450 sales reps service over 13,000 accounts…throughout the United States…” In other words, this local, family business grew itself into a behemoth. That’s the inevitable result of big corporate retailers demanding huge volume of homogenous products. It’s tough for a small, family-owned greenhouse operation to supply enough plants for even one Home Depot or Wal-Mart, let alone an entire region’s worth. And so small greenhouse businesses don’t even try; instead, they find a niche as retail garden centers. Or they go out of business.

Similarly, supermarket chains demand volume that only a very large company can supply, and so we have food safety problems like the spinach contamination of 2006, in which the deadly E. coli pathogen occurred in a field in California. The spinach harvested from that field was mixed with spinach from other farms, then washed, bagged and shipped all over the United States. Ultimately, 103 people were hospitalized, 35 suffered acute kidney failure, and four died. Or consider Tanimura & Antle, the Salinas, CA, vegetable grower. It found Salmonella in one lot of Romaine lettuce in late July, and issued a voluntary recall. The recalled lettuce was sold in retail, wholesale and food service establishments in Canada, Puerto Rico, and all 50 states. One lot of lettuce.

Consumers are looking for a new system, a safer system. They intuitively recognize that buying food at the local farmers market, or direct from a farm CSA, is smarter and safer than buying from a big grower shipping from the other side of the continent. The increase in consumer demand has created new opportunities for farmers and aspiring farmers to sell more local food than this country has seen in decades. The late blight epidemic serves as yet another reminder that we need to do more to restore food security and rebuild local commerce in our communities. Perhaps the transplant problems will create another opportunity, for local greenhouses growing plants to sell to local gardeners and farmers. When that happens, we may be able to stake a claim to true local food, from planting to plate.


30
Jun 09

Forays into Letters-to-the-editor

On Sunday, June 28, the Boston Globe Sunday Magazine published this
poorly researched anti-localvoristic tirade. Our response is below:

To the Editor:

Tom Keane grossly misunderstands the principles and practices of
“locavorism,” and the implications of industrial agriculture.

To say that locavores’ worry only that transporting foods long distances
is environmentally taxing is to be truly in the dark about what goes on on
America’s factory farms. With beef, for example, heavily-subsidized,
petro-chemical guzzling corn grown in the country’s heartland is shipped
to feedlots, where cattle live in conditions that give rise to fatal E.
coli outbreaks (like the one causing the current beef recall as of today,
June 29). The inputs are far greater than I’ve outlined here and are more
than just a truck ride east.

This is only one example of how the industrial food system works. Its
hidden costs and its dangers are very high and very real. (A problem with
a centralized food supply affects all of us; a problem with centralized
microchip production, as in his poor example, does not spell life and
death.)

One need only look as far as the Boston Globe itself to find example
conscientious eaters explaining that their locavorism is not about denial.
“I don’t just need coffee, I love coffee. It’s the center of my world and
I’m happy to support it.” And “I’m in no way a purist.” (Locavores relish
the challenge of winter, February 11, 2009, by Devra First).

We’re not sure where Mr. Keane got his ideas but we wish he’d asked us.
Over coffee, even.

Darry Madden & Kristi Ceccarossi
Boston Localvores (www.bostonlocalvores.org)


30
Jun 09

CSF: Week 3

These little whiting were quite delicious! We scaled them with a few quick strokes of a knife, cut off their heads (and pulled out theirimg_4230 guts) and battered them in a simple batter that was filled to bursting with fresh oregano. Then we fried them in oil for just a minute or so on each side. Their delicate meat flaked off the bone, leaving the skeleton behind. Also in our share is a large flounder.

We got an email earlier today saying that we could expect whiting. So I googled it, and wikipedia told me that some Americans called whiting hake. So I looked up hake, and was worried for the rest of the day that this was coming.

 

cimg6699aWe’re so happy it wasn’t this fellow! No offense. I’m sure you’re very good at being a fish.