Author Archives


11
Jan 10

The power of flour

Old-school flour ad
Flour is highly explosive.
Flour is highly sought-after.
Flour is highly malleable.
Flour is, in a word, powerful.

Your purchasing dollar is powerful, too.

I’m going to discuss the spectrum of flour options that whirled through my head the other day. I won’t be discussing the benefits of whole wheat flour vs. white flour vs. rice flour, etc. Rather, I’ll be sharing a few ideas about the options for your next purchase of something as trivial-seeming as flour. I’ll talk about price, availability, labeling, etc. and hope that my sarcasm and bias aren’t TOO evident…

I wanted to avoid going out into the chilly weather, but alas needed this key ingredient. I found several different flours at home, but the combination of whole wheat, all-purpose, masa harina, etc. still didn’t amount to what I needed. I found myself having an all-too-frequent inner debate regarding where to shop: Harvest Co-op or Whole Foods? Scraping by with whatever was in the house wasn’t an option, so I headed out.

I had quite a load of food scraps that were begging to be dropped off (the Whole Foods on Prospect Street in Cambridge has a complete recycling/composting center), so I went for that option.

Below is what I’ve discovered about this powerful stuff. Caveat: I didn’t pursue standard brands, like Pillsbury or Gold Medal. This is my bias, I guess. Instead, I’m addressing items that I’d consider buying and that are available in my immediate neighborhood…

Whole Foods 365 Organic Unbleached All-Purpose Flour

  • Kosher, organic, $3 for a 5lb. bag, paper bag. Distributed by Whole Foods, Austin, Texas.
  • Ingredients: Organic unbleached wheat flour, organic malted barley flour.
  • In their own words: “Product of USA”

Not a whole lot to work with, right? Whole Foods “365” packaging is mysterious. They tout their local and organic products and yet, the only information that you get is “distributed in Texas.” I find it disconcerting that this could mean that your organic berries are from South America or that your salmon was caught in Washington, sent to China to be filleted and then sent to Texas and then to Massachusetts for your lox and bagel brunch. Kinda makes the organic argument moot if it’s saturated in fuel. The “corporate organic” dilemma is frustrating, to say the least. Granted, you are hands-down doing the right thing by choosing organic over conventional. But the truth can be blurry, if not downright hidden, sometimes.  

King Arthur 100% Organic Bread Flour

  • Kosher, organic, $5 for a 5lb. bag, paper bag
  • Milled exclusively for The King Arthur Flour Company, Norwich, Vermont
  • Ingredients: Certified 100% organic hard red spring wheat flour, certified 100% organic malted barley flour.
  • In their own words: “No bleach or preservatives ever added.” “Milled from 100% U.S.-grown wheat” “100% employee-owned, 100% committed to quality” “Never Bleached. Never Bromated.” “We keep the best interests of our employees, our community, and the environment top of our mind in everything we do.” B Corporation logo as well as testimonials, recipes, and a letter from the president of the company.

We had a bag of King Arthur flour in my apartment, but I never gave it a second look until it was practically empty and destined for the recycling bin. This bag is chock full of information, a lot of which is subtle, but still very present. This company is incredibly forth-coming with information regarding labor practices, environmental commitments and socially responsible behavior. And it’s locally produced, to boot! I also learned that the company is a B Corporation, which as far as I can tell, is a very cool thing. By slowing down for a minute to read the package, I have been prompted to action, been educated, and been caused to feel warm and fuzzy in the process.

Arrowhead Mills Organic Stone Ground Whole Wheat Flour

  • Kosher, organic, $3 for 2lb. bag, paper bag
  • Manufactured for distribution by Arrowhead Mills, A Division of the Hain Celestial Group, Melville, New York
  • Ingredients: Organic whole wheat flour
  • In their own words: recipes, “Grown without synthetic pesticides” “Whole Grain Flour” “Low fat diets rich in whole grain foods and other plant foods may reduce the risk of heart disease and certain cancers.” “Good Source of Fiber and Thiamin” “Low Fat” “All Natural – no artificial anything!” “Whole Grains Council stamp” “Naturally Nutritious” “All Natural” “Stone Ground Whole Wheat, the ‘Miller’s Choice.’ You will still find our signature organic whole wheat stone ground in our old fashioned mill, just as it had originally been produced long ago in the midwest. Naturally sodium and cholesterol free, low fat, and a good fiber source, our stone ground whole wheat is a true American grain staple.”

Again, Arrowhead Mills succeeds via its packaging, giving the consumer the information he/she needs to make a wise and informed decision. I also learned that they are part of a large conglomeration (corporate organic bells ringing!) that produces many other widely-found organic lines. However, they seem to be doing the right thing, by way of a Corporate Social Responsibility Report on the home page of their website, for example.

Bulk organic flour from Harvest Co-op (Arrowhead Mills selection)

To my surprise and pleasure, I learned that the bulk selection of flours come from Arrowhead Mills as well. Buying in bulk saves money, minimizes (or eliminates) packaging, has a much smaller carbon foot-print, and is more engaging than simply grabbing something off the shelf like a zombie. The Harvest Co-op, too, is an important place to spend your dollars, as it is a local, cooperatively-owned business that practices what they preach.

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Pioneer Valley Heritage Grains

  • Kosher, organic, $300 for 150 lbs. of assorted whole grains, Eco-bags: hand-sewn by owners, farmers, share-holders
  • In their own words: “Restoring community based grain, bean and seed production. Organic, ecological agriculture for nutrient dense food! In response to escalating grain shortages worldwide (due to climate choas, population growth, and increased energy demands) growing grain for ones own community is not only sensible but a necessary component of food security. Communities all over the globe are taking their own food systems back into their hands and producing, as humans have done for millennium, their own sustenance. Thank you for your support and YES WE CAN!”

Ben and Adrie Lester are endeavoring to have a grain CSA for the first time ever. I am a share-holder, and am eagerly awaiting 150 lbs. of locally-grown wheatberries, beans, barley and other grains. I am very, very excited about the prospects of having locally-sourced grain at my fingertips for an entire year. I haven’t yet determined how I’ll mill the grain, but I’ll sort that out, possibly even buying a mill collectively and having monthly milling parties. This option for grain results in the fact that I will establish a relationship with the actual people who have grown, processed and organized getting the food into my hands.

One of my main food-related goals is to avoid having to go the grocery store as much as possible. The grain CSA will eliminate many trips to the store, is the most affordable choice, brings me a ton of new information, introduces me to new people and ideas, and is the most healthy. I feel very privileged to live somewhere with so many choices.

So there you have a summary of my latest braindump. But so what, right?

Labeling is key; corporate responsibility is huge. There are several companies vying to corner the market for scannable barcodes that will deliver immediate information regarding the impact of your purchase. Until this becomes a standard practice, I encourage you to read labels, send emails, post links, and basically question everything. The Smart Choices Program failed. Why? Because people like you and me got pissed off and did something about it.

If a grain CSA isn’t an option, I highly recommend that you look at your options and take a few minutes to make conscientious decisions about how and where you spend your money and how and what you put inside your body. It’s worth the extra couple dollars to stimulate local economies and stimulate better, healthier appetites.

I’m all too aware that green-washing or “green fatigue” is ever-present, causing one to feel frustrated, misled, and pushed-around. If we take the helm, we can make healthy decisions based on our own research, conversations and gumption.

Don’t forget: “Eating is an agricultural act”.


29
Jul 09

Ch-ch-ch-ch-ch-cherrrrry BOMB!!

Cadillac, Feathers and Tom Cruise sure know how to enjoy an Ambrosia Salad, but the recipe below is more my speed.

Cherry Bomb
As we quickly run out of room in our freezer, I’m pursuing other methods of storing food for the winter.
I was initially inspired by Pete Wells’ recipe, which I might still try later this summer. For today, I opted to make these very, very simple brandied cherries, which I hadn’t ever done. Here are some tips, should you find yourself at the farmer’s market wanting a few extra pounds of cherries to put up.

Currently, it looks like I murdered someone in our apartment. As the cherries tend to burst as you pit them, be sure to change out of any clothing you care about or put on an apron. Also be sure to be clear of white walls, cell phones and/or library books. WOOPS. I scrubbed for a good 20 minutes, but future tenants will just have to wonder if someone died or got funky with too much red wine, thus blaming it on the boogie. You are going to get MESSY. Granted, I smell quite lovely, but my hands have a ghosty sheen to them, worthy of the best zombers get-up.

Maybe get a cherry stoner? I’ll say that again, CHERRY STONER. Why one of these monsters hasn’t been given to me as a house-warming gift is beyond me. Maybe one of these little cuties can come home with me some day? ZOMG, somebody STOP me from buying this one!

The iconic Dana Hill Liquor store (we like to call it “Vegas Liquor”) on Mass Ave has a good deal on brandy right now. The proprietor told me that it was shipped to them by mistake, so get $16 and head over for a liter of E&J VSOP Superior Reserve. Not the best brandy in the world, but does the trick for our cherry-rific purposes.

Audrey Horne wasn’t the only Twin Peaks character into cherries, but damned if she wasn’t the sexiest one. I think maybe I’ll end all my blog stories with video…

BRANDIED CHERRIES
adapted from Cherry Home Companion.

It takes 6 weeks for results, but is well worth the effort.

cherries2 cups sugar
4 cups brandy
2 lbs. fresh sweet cherries, stemmed and pitted

1. Dissolve sugar in brandy in a sterilized 2–3-quart glass jar with a tight-fitting lid.
2. Add cherries.
3. Cover jar and allow cherries to macerate in the refrigerator for 6 weeks.
4. To serve, pour some of the brandy into a small glass and add a few cherries. Cherries will keep, refrigerated, for up to 1 year.


22
Jul 09

Can Someone Do Me a Fava?!?!?

I can admit it: I’m a little obsessed with fava beans. While I was living in Spain, my co-worker/buddy would make me my favorite dish when I was grumpy. Known as “habas con jamon y huevos,” it is an amazing combo that I’ve never seen someone NOT enjoy. Although, apparently some people have a genetic disorder called “favism” that results from eating them…

Fava Beans

Having never eaten fresh fava beans (we used frozen in Spain), I jumped at the chance to re-create the dish while at the farmer’s market. I bought a few pounds from Parker Farms and then swung by Savenor’s on my trusty bici to get the coveted Jamon Serrano. With eggs from Austin Brothers Valley Farm and onions and garlic from my Red Fire Farm CSA, this was guaranteed to be an awesome meal. [The only thing missing was authentic Spanish olive oil, which truly can’t be beat, but that’s a blog story for another day.] The desired result was even better than I remembered.

I have since returned to buy almost 30 pounds of fresh fava beans for freezing purposes, from Parker Farms and Drumlin Farms. Fava beans are only around for two or three weeks a year from what I understand, so I may have gone a little overboard, especially given the tiny freezer in my apartment. For freezing purposes, you need simply to shuck the beans, parboil for two to three minutes, dunk them in cold water to cool them off, drain, lay them out in a single layer, freeze through, then bag them up! You’ll have to shuck them out of their giant pods and THEN peel the outer layer off of each bean to actually cook them for eating right away (or after defrosting later). I recommend watching an episode of Alfred Hitchcock Presents on Hulu while shucking. A friend is certainly helpful, too…

 
HABAS CON JAMON Y HUEVOS

NOTE: I don’t really do measurements for certain recipes. If you like something more than something else, use more of it. If you want the ham to egg ratio to be 5:1, have at it, I say.

  • 1 pound shucked/peeled fava beans (this is about 2 pounds of whole fresh fava beans)
  • Small piece of Jamon Serrano, slice should be ¼ to ½ inch thick, cubed [DO NOT TRIM THE FAT!!!
  • Eggs
  • Onion
  • Garlic
  • Olive Oil
  • Salt/pepper
  • Love (you should always have this on hand and always use it)
  1. Fry onion and garlic in olive oil for a few minutes, taking care not to brown the garlic.
  2. Toss in the ham and let the fat melt. Toss in the fava beans and continue frying until the beans just start to brown and the onions start to caramelize and the ham gets a bit crispy, but not too crispy.
  3. Make little wells within the mixture and crack an egg into each one. Fry the eggs until desired level of eggness. Putting a lid over the frying pan will help to cook the tops of the eggs, rather than attempting to flip them.

I find that this meal works for breakfast, lunch, dinner, snack, whatever, and is quite filling. Or enjoy with a nice Chianti, as Hannibal Lecter recommends.

Happy eating!!