Cheese


10
Aug 10

Cheese, the wrap up.

cheese-tri

Thanks folks for the tremendous turnout at this year’s tasting. By 4:30, there were well over 100 of you hanging out in the Growing Center — a bit more than we anticipated, so our apologies for those of you who came later and missed out on a few.

Here’s this year’s lineup! Please support these talented and generous cheesemakers by visiting these shoppes, the best places to buy local cheese in the area: Sherman Market, Formaggio Kitchen, Central Bottle, Harvest Co-op, Dave’s Fresh Pasta, Dairy Bar@Kick Ass Cupcakes, City Feed and Supply and Don Otto’s Market.

Cheese Tasting 2010
–starring –

Cabot Clothbound -— An approachable but sophisticated cheddar aged in the magical caves at Jasper Hill in Greesnboro, Vt.

Cabot Vintage Choice — An extra sharp cheese made with cow’s milk and aged up to 24 months in the Cabot caves.

Cabot Private Stock — Cabot’s smoothest, most even cheddar. Smooth maybe to a fault.

Crystal Brook Chevre — A mild chevre from a herd of very happy goats in Sterling, Mass.

Crystal Brook Australian Ginger — See above, and add some zing. Yes, that’s ginger from Australia!

Fiore di Nonno Mozzarella — Made fresh daily here in Somerville with cow’s milk from farms in upstate New York and Mass.

Foxboro Cheese Fromage Blanc — A soft, creamy cheese made with pasteurized milk in the shadow of Gillette Stadium, flavored with honey and lemon.

Narrangansett Feta — A tangy, “old world” style feta that’s gently brined in sea salt, made from Rhode Island’s only cheese producer.

Narrangansett Ricotta — A kettle-heated, hand-dipped and absolutely divine ricotta.

Jasper Hill’s Moses Sleeper — A rich, buttery cow’s cheese that’s been likened to a fresh glass of milk.

Shy Brothers Cloumage — A fresh lactic curd made with cow’s milk in Westport, Mass.

Shy Brothers Hannahbells — Tiny hand-made thimbles named for the Shy Brother’s mum, Hannah. (The Shy Bros. are two sets of fraternal twins. Seriously.)

Vermont Shepherd — An aged raw sheep’s cheese made only during pasture season, when the sheep graze on clover, grasses and wild herbs.

– and introducing –

Matt from Sherman Market — A semi-ripened man aging on the other side of the hill in Somerville. Very knowledgeable about cheese. The Sherman Market carries all kinds of regional goodies, and he’ll be sampling some of their cheeses today. Be sure to visit him.


2
Aug 10

Cheese, the tasting.

WHAT: 3rd Annual Local Cheese Tasting
WHEN: Sunday, Aug 8 from 3-5ish
WHERE: The Growing Center, 22 Vinal Ave, Somerville
COST: Free, but we welcome a small donation to help cover our costs

Three summers ago we were doing some volunteer weeding at the Growing Center when we met Lisa Brukilacchio, a board member and founding organizer of this sweet little garden space in Somerville.

We had just launched this site and were relatively new to the area and somehow it got proposed that it might be fun for us to organize an event with the Growing Center, to amplify what we were doing and meet more like-minded folks. And in a couple of weeks, we were hosting a cheese tasting.

We’d never done this sort of thing before and it was kind of a spectacular turnout for us, who didn’t really know anybody then, and for the nascent local food scene, which had been gaining steam for years, of course, but was certainly gaining momentum by some confluence of food scares, Michael Pollan books and growth in farmers markets.

About 50 people showed up, snacked on cheese and introduced themselves to strangers. We met people that night who have become some of our closest friends and best allies. It was a lovely evening. We’re still grateful to everyone who showed up that year, as well as last year — which was just as lovely — and to the Growing Center for continuing to partner with us and providing such a warm space.

We’re continuing the tradition for the third straight year now. We promise, we’re slightly more organized and we’ve got several new types of cheese to share. We’ve got a special celebrity guest: Matt from the cheese counter at Sherman Market!

Over the course of the week we’ll be finalizing the stars of this year’s tasting, but for certain, you can count on seeing stuff from these generous producers:

-Crystal Brook (Australian ginger goat cheese)
-Foxboro Cheese (lemon honey fromage blanc)
-Narrangansett (feta or ricotta)
-Cabot (cloth bound, private stock and vintage choice cheddars)
-Fiore di Nonno (mozzarella)
-Shy Bros Farm (Hannahbells and cloumage)

also probably stuff from…
-Jasper Hill
-Vermont Shepard

See. You. There.


18
May 10

Ode to Vermont

kristifield

This is what it looks like when we go to Vermont. Kristi looks like she’ll collapse from happiness.

In this photo, she’s standing where our friend Howard’s yard meets the neighbor’s yard. We happen to know that in the neighbor’s yard is a cheese cave where wheels of Vermont Shepherd are aged. And across the street, Vermont Shepherd’s flock graze in the twilight.

sheep

I was ten when my family moved to Vermont from Long Island. I think that was young enough for it to mean I have no other home. Life was always just, you know, life. We did not grow up with money or privilege, but secret waterfalls and misty blue afternoons like this one were very much normal. Now when I go back, I’m like a tourist, unable to believe that such beauty still exists unspoiled and that people just live in this Eden in such a daily way. My day to day life now involves hot exhaust from MBTA buses and hipsters, trying so hard.

I know that Vermont has done a hell of job marketing itself to the rest of New England and the world as an exceptional place where exceptional artisan food is made. But this flock of sheep, guarded by a working sheep dog, are not at all an unusual site. These photos are not taken wildly out of context. The marketing is no shill.

road


5
Jul 09

Free. Local. Cheese tasting.

cheeseThis will be fun.

On Thursday from 6 to 9 at the Growing Center in Somerville, we’ll have seriously delicious sampling of cheese from around New England. Plus some info about how they’re made and, most importantly, where you can buy them. Available to you, good eater, for free.

The Growing Center is a leafy nook outside Union Square. Thus, this will be outdoors. And the good people there are so organized, we even have a rain date: July 11.

We’ll also have some cheese-related snacks. *We encourage you to bring some too. (A crusty loaf, jam, chocolate.)

Please come — It’s our first 2nd annual something! When we did this last summer it was a really swell time and, for us, the first night we met a lot of like-minded people who have become very good friends over the last year. All thanks to the internets, and our collective interest in going to meet a bunch of strangers over good food.

Some of the cheese we’ll be featuring this year:

Fiore di Nonno — amazing mozzarella made by hand in Somerville by Lourdes Smith
Valley View chevre and semi-ripened — this is a small family-farm in Topsfield (North Shore repreresent)
Cricket Creek — gorgeous rounds of ripened raw cow’s milk from the Berkshires
Heartsong — goat’s milk camembert from New Hampshire

and several more…

Honestly, this is FREE. But we would welcome a $3 donation to cover the cost of the cheese (some of which is donated, some of which is not). We’d also like to kick some funds to the Growing Center and the important work they do.


17
Jul 08

Holy crap, that was fun!

admittedly it was a bit of an experiment, that thing we did last night at the growing center. we had no idea what kind of successful outreach and interaction, if any, we were having with the interweb, or how likely it was to expect dozens of people we’d never met to find a sort of remote part of somerville and hang out with us. just before we headed over with our civic full of every plate we own and a couple pounds of local cheese, darry and i were estimating on our hands that probably, maybe, 15 people might show up. and most of them would be our friends that we made promise to go.

so it was with profound surprise and happiness and gratitude that about 50 people, most of them strangers, arrived at the growing center to eat cheese with us. and put on silly name tags, and introduce themselves to strangers and linger in the fading light of a quiet urban garden. it was awesome, and i am seriously, seriously really glad you all came. it was a pleasure. also, it would have been a load of cheese to take home if you had not been there. thanks.

and since a bunch of you asked, the following is a reprint of the cheese bios that were on display (and perhaps a bit confusing — my apologies for the clutter) last night.

LOCAL BENDER … next month. we shall gather again to drink local beer.

the cheeses… all of these are available at some combo of farmers’ markets, Whole Foods, Formaggio Kitchen, Foodie’s, City Feed and Supply, Lionette’s, Dave’s Fresh Pasta, Harvest Co-ops and the Dairy Bar.

GREAT HILL BLUE - This is made in Marion, Mass., in an old barn on the shores of Buzzard’s Bay. The cheesemakers use raw, unhomogenized cow’s milk from neighboring farms. The result is softer than your average blue cheese. And rather light and elegant. Put it on salads, please! Price: $14.99/lb. We get this is at Whole Foods on River St. It’s also at the Dairy Bar in Somerville.

GRAFTON CHEDDAR (sage + maple smoked) - This hails from lovely and terribly remote Graftonv, VT! Grafton Village Cheese Co. is literally the only thing happening in this town, and it employs a bunch of people. The cheesemakers use hormone-free milk from Jersey cows that live on New England farms. If you’re gonna buy cheddar, it’s way better to buy Grafton cheddar than some faceless, glow-in-the-dark orange crap you can find in any Grocery Store. It’s a quality, localish (most cheddar is not) and with a seriously good bite. And good news: Grafton is sold just about everywhere! Any Harvest Co-op, Whole Foods, Shaw’s, Hannaford’s should have it. Also, it comes in several tasty flavors, as well as regular old sharp cheddar, and it’s relatively affordable. Price: $6.99 for 8 oz wheel; $4.99 for 8 oz bar

CONSTANT BLISS, Jasper Hill Farm in Greensboro, VT -  Bliss is made from fresh, raw cow’s milk. Starter culture is added before the milking is even finished! The slow lactic fermentation that takes place overnight renders the milk yogurt-like by morning, Each cheese is turned daily for the first two weeks, after which they are turned twice a week until they have developed a rind and are ripe! Price: $10.99 for 5 oz wheel. We go this at Whole Foods too.

BAYLEY HAZEN BLEU, Jasper Hill Farm in Greensboro, VT - Bayley Hazen Blue is a natural rinded blue cheese made with the early morning (raw) milk of Ayrshire cows. Ayrshire milk is particularly well suited to the production of blue cheese because of its small fat globules, which are easily broken down during the aging process. The paste of a Bayley Hazen is drier than most blues and the penicillium roqueforti takes a back seat to an array of flavors that hint at nuts and grasses and in the odd batch, licorice. It is aged between 4 and 6 months. It’s drier and crumblier than most blues — and damn strong. You need just a little taste to get the job done. Price: $21.99/lb. Whole Foods!

CRYSTAL BROOK FARM GOAT CHEESE, Mediterranean Marinade - This is made in Sterling, Mass., by Ann Starbard, a very spunky and rather iconoclastic lady. (Ye who ask her why local cheese costs more than Grocery Store cheese, BEWARE!) Ann also keeps a herd of 70 alpine and saanen goats. They’re wily and beautiful. And very well cared for — so are the pastures they spend their days on.  (Tidbit: Ann’s husband Eric is a sawyer; he producers lumber on the farm.) Price: $3.25 per serving. I got this at the Davis Sq farmers’ market on Wednesday. It’s sold at other markets. Check their web site for a listing.

CAPRI, Westfield Farm in Hubbardston, Mass. - Ten years ago, the family that owned Westfield Farm wanted to retire. They put a classified in the Globe’s real estate section and Bob and Debbie Stetson, two urbanites looking for a change, made an offer! They ended up moving in with the family for a month to learn the ropes. The property is no longer a working farm; the Stetsons opted to just take over cheese production. But they do buy milk from four local goat dairies. They make fresh and aged goat cheese,  including an aged bleu goat cheese and a feta. But their wee logs of chevre are the easiest to come by. It’s creamy and the flavor is quite gentle. Plus, the Stetsons are very nice people. And this is sold at the Brookline Farmers’ Market. Price: $5.49 for 5 oz log. I got this at Whole Food’s but I’ve seen it around. Check the Westfield Farm site.

FIORE DI NONNO or “my grandfather’s flower” - Holy, holy crap. Here is the crown jewel! Lourdes Smith makes this mozzarella every morning right down the street in the Tazo chocolate factory in Somerville. Lourdes’ grandfather, an Italian immigrant, ran a dairy shop in New Jersey when she was a kid. As a grown up, she sought out to emulate his perfect hand-stretched mozzarella and went to study with a fellow who’d apprenticed under her grandfather. Thus, the recipe she uses today is pretty damn close to what he brought over from the old country. This mozzarella is nothing like the shrink-wrapped stuff in the supermarket. It’s meaty, perfectly salted and melty in your mouth. If you eat it with fresh tomatoes and basil, it will rock your world. You can get it at Davis Sqare, Belmont, Lexington, Copley Square and Kendall Square farmers’ markets. Also at speciality shops and a couple of fancy restaurants. Price: $5 per serving. Lourdes sells at Davis Sq, Lexington + Belmont Markets. Dave’s Fresh Pasta and Lionette’s. Check her site for the full listing, though.

VERMONT BRIE, Blythedale Farm in Corinth, VT - This cheese is new to us. What we know: it’s made with pasteurized, whole milk from Jersey cows. And the cows are hormone-free and have year-round access to pasture. Indeed they look pretty happy in the photos on the Vermont Cheese web site. Price: $8.99 for a wheel. Whole Foods!

SMITH’S COUNTRY CHEESE, Gouda from Winchendon, Mass. - The Smith family keeps a pretty large herd of Holsteins on their farm. They use raw milk from the cows to make this gouda. The rind on these babies is wax — so don’t eat it! The cheese — like all cheeses made with raw milk — is aged 60 days. That’s the law. The Smiths have a rather big operation out there in Winchendon and their cows are grain fed, which we are a bit dubious about. But still, this is not a factory produced cheese. It’s the real local deal, and just about the only gouda we’ve been able to find made in Massachusetts. Price: $6.99 for 8 oz wedge. I got this at the Dairy Bar in Somerville.

HANNAHBELLS, Shy Brothers Farm in Westport Point, Mass. - The Shy Brothers are, in fact, two sets of twin brothers. Bizarre, no? They grew up on their dairy farm and, a few years back, when it looked like they might have to sell because mega, monoculture farms like to crush small operations like theirs, the Hanleys moved to town. The Hanleys are very nice business people who worry about the future of food. They decided a good way to save the farm was to turn it into a slightly more specialized place. Hence, these fancy little artisanal cheeses were born and the Shy Brothers became cheesemakers. Their cows graze, the milk is pasteurized and the cheese is ready to eat after about two weeks of aging. The cheese itself is modeled on a French recipe. It comes in fun flavors too! And the Hanleys insist the unique ocean-y climate in Westport Point gives the milk a super special edge. Price: $6.99 for 4 oz. Dairy Bar. But these also sell at a bunch of Whole Foods, Foodie’s Market in the South End and maybe Formaggio Kitchen.


28
Jun 08

Exciting cheese tasting + Kristi spotted playing in compost

Everybody, this is Kristi. She’s captured here in her natural environment with a Canon Rebel using a 18-55 mm telephoto lens. This awesome photojournalism took place this morning at The Growing Center in Somerville, where Kristi was adding dry stuff to the compost bins and just before an elderly Italian gentleman, taken with her “big, sparkling eyes,” serenaded her in Italian.

Our real mission there, though, was meeting with Lisa of The Growing Center and plotting an event. Please come. It’ll be really delicious and we’d love to meet you at [drumroll] The Local Cheese Tasting! Mark your calendars for July 16, from  7-9, plan on having a light dinner and wandering over to The Growing Center and nibbling on the many delicious + affordable cheeses. We’re also going to show a short film under the stars about some important food issue, but we haven’t quite decided which one exactly it will be. But that’s good for you, because you’ll have a surprise to look forward to.

If it were the year 2014, you could take the Green Line to Union Square and walk from there. But it’s not. So it’s either drive (there’s plenty of parking) or find a bus that goes to Union Square or has a stop somewhere near the corner of Highland Ave + Vinal Street (the #88 picks up at the Davis Sq station which is on the Red Line).

We’ll keep you posted on this, but please try to come! And if anyone out there has suggestions for cheeses we should try, write to us [info at bostonlocalvores dot org]. Also, we’re amateur cheesemongers — anyone with real language or expertise that wants to volunteer their skillz for a couple of hours would be repaid in cheese and karma and gratitude.


5
Jun 08

Davis Square Farmer’s Market: Heavy Rain

Pictured here is Liam Madden, Iraq Veterans Against the War superman, Boston Localvore par excellence, dude in need of a raincoat on this, the second day of the Davis Square Farmers’ Market. Liam is my little brother and a mozzarella salesman on his summer break from college. He’s shilling Fiore di Nonno cheese for Lourdes Smith.

A bunch of markets kicked off this week including those in Copley and Central Squares. For those of you up in the Davis Square neck of the woods, you have it good. It’s Wednesdays from 12 to 6 and they have all the goods when the season is in full swing. Beef, bread, chocolate, cow’s milk mozzarella and chevre and all the usual produce suspects PLUS, in the fall, this guy comes in on the sly and sells the most exquisite Wellfleet oysters for a song. (He’s not *technically* supposed to for some bullshit red tape reason, but we salute his doing so. Subverting the corporate industrial food complex is kind of our middle name).

After seeing Liam soaked to the bone with three hours to go, I walked over to the Goodwill and purchased a couple of sweatshirt-y numbers for him. If you see him at any subsequent markets, a couple things to keep in mind are A). That cheese has a narcotic quality in the best possible way (also it’s cheaper at the market than at the retail locations — $5). B). Liam has an amazing recipe for spicy homemade whole grain mustard that you could ask for, then make yourself, C). He was a Marine Corps Sargeant, so don’t try any funny business. D) He’s really bright and outgoing and has a few opinions about U.S. foreign policy that let’s just say we here at BostonLocalvores.org agree with.

Somervillians: Union Square market this Saturday, 9 am to 1 pm.


14
May 08

Whole Foods doesn’t totally suck!

There are a few really delicious localvore options if you’re a denizen Whole Foods. We’ll just keep posting them as they come up. It’s hard to rank them, so this is in no particular order (P.S. we’re not cheesemongers, so we use words like “awesome” and “badass” to describe the subtle terroir, etc. of the cheeses):

• Great Hill Bleu Cheese (Marion, Ma).

Badass raw milk bleu cheese that we like on greens, just crumbled. But drop a few crumbles of this into a couple spoonfuls of mayonnaise and blend a bit and have a really simple, yummy bleu cheese dip.

• Ascutney Mountain Cheese, (Hartland, Vt.)

Aged Alpine style cheese (think comte or gruyere) from Cobb Hill Cheese. It’s outrageously good. Like, beyond caring that it’s $20/lb. good. Just buy a sliver as a treat and don’t ruin it with water crackers. We served it with green olives that had been marinated in olive oil, chopped garlic and a whole lemon cut and squoze. Alternate mouthfuls of olive and cheese and some good, soft/crusty french bread.

• Real Pickles Stuff (Greenfield, Ma)

Real Pickles makes sauerkraut, Kim chi, and regular old dill pickles. First, know that this is the real, raw deal. It’s not pickled in vinegar or pasteurized to death. It’s vegetables and salt, like every culture since the dawn of time has made to preserve food and make it more nutritious. Until you taste sauerkraut in this form, you haven’t lived. We eat sauerkraut  straight up and like animals, standing at the open refrigerator door with a fork in the jar.

• Mendon Creamery Butter (Mendon, Ma)

We buy the maple butter and eat it on English muffins. But they make regular ole butter, too. I tried calling them, but they mysteriously never answer the phone or return calls. But they make good butter.

• Vermont Butter and Cheese, Co. Stuff (Websterville, Vt.)

We ALWAYS have this goat cheese in our house. It’s especially good on everything, but extraspecially good in softly cooked scrambled eggs.