Meals


7
Jul 08

Sunday dinner: sustainable + Nana

When I was a kid on the Northern Shores of Boston, some combination of my father’s very loud and very large family gathered every Sunday at my grandparents’ house in Revere to share dinner, which was served, invariably, more like around lunch time.

The menu rarely strayed from: two pounds of pasta (DeCecco, produced in my family’s native region, Abruzzi, was preferred), Nana’s slow-brewing sauce and a large pile of meatballs, chicken, veal and sausage, all cooked in the sauce; a post-pasta salad dressed with olive oil and vinegar; post-salad fruit; post-fruit coffee and handmade pastries.

I thought for a long time that everyone did this. But when the tradition persisted into my adulthood, and other interests absorbed my time on Sundays, I figured out it was a relic; a privilege, in a way, but also a burden. Other recovering Italians will understand this, I think.

Nana, who is alone now, still makes Sunday dinner. Same menu, fewer people to feed. It is delicious, of course, and her sauce has a consistency that, I truly believe, only people born in her pocket of Italy can actually achieve.

The trouble is I escaped the North Shore, and was abducted by a troupe of good eaters in Western Mass and Southern VT. They taught me things that make me shudder about the origins of the thousands of meatballs I’ve consumed at Nana’s table; my palette now discerns a difference between her romaine and the greens I pick up the farmer’s market. I try to politely introduce these feelings and thoughts at Sunday, when I go, but mostly Nana just asks what’s wrong with me, and why I no longer like meatballs. Also, tangentially, she tells me I am tragically flat-chested.

Anyway. last Sunday, my mum and brother Marc bravely drove to Cambridge (people from the North Shore don’t often like to do this) and Darry and I served them our version of Nana’s menu. (PS, Nana knows nothing of this.) But here’s what our sustainable Sunday dinner looked like. I encourage you all to recreate it next week.

Fresh local egg pasta from Capone Foods (locations in Somerville + Cambridge; sold in specialty stores too. A-Mazing.)

My sauce: two cans of diced tomatoes, garlic, local onions; thyme and rosemary from our patio

A baguette from Hi-Rise

Salad: greens from Stillman’s (Cambridgeport farmers market); beet greens from our CSA; topped with goat cheese from Westfield Farm in Hubbardston Mass and PERFECT roasted beets from Drumlin

Strawberries and cherries from Drumlin Farm (Union Sq market); topped with ganache made from Taza chocolate

There is a very important metaphor in this posting; something about the old world origins of the Sunday dinner being corrupted by the new world and the reinvention of the corrupted version of the dinner, using old world-style grown and gathered materials. But I am burned by the sun tonight and far from being able to extrapolate it.

prego


27
Jun 08

Preaching to the would-be converts

Very happily, Wednesdays have become a junket of local food pickups, which invariably punctuate with a feast, best enjoyed with others on the wobbly table we’ve got on our patio. Usually our friends showup when it’s time to eat, but yesterday, for the first time, we took someone — our friend Rachael — along for the pre-feast tour.

The fun for us nerds begins Wednesdays in Inman Square, in an apartment house on Tremont St, where we get our Just Dairy order. Rachael watched me punch in the code on the combo lock, duck way down through the doorway, and into the basement where there’s a fridge filled with glass jars of raw milk and cartons of eggs. I scanned the goods for our order. She asked, more than once, who lives in the house. But I couldn’t tell her. I don’t know. “Sketchy” was the response.

Barely a moment later, we were back in the car and headed for the parking lot outside Harvest Co-op in Central Sq to fetch our CSA share. Per usual, there was a line of very hungry looking types checking in, gathering the week’s veggies with gusto and grace. Rachael wanted to know how all of these people , who looked roughly our age and basically like us, found out about the business of buying a CSA at all. This a good question, I think, and any thoughts on it are very welcome.

We got home and here’s what we ate: 2 hard boiled eggs each (from Just Dairy), a salad with carrots (CSA share) and goat cheese (Vermont Butter and Cheese Co), sauteed zucchini, summer squash and garlic scapes (CSA). And some leftover bread from Hi-Rise.

Rachael is not a self-described localvore. She is, however, an awesomely curious and open soul, and she is actively trying to eat well, and better all the time. And here is the point of all of this so far directionless chatter about how we spent last evening: We talk a lot about this local eating thing with Rachael, and she asks great questions about it that make us clarify and articulate (in our own heads) why we do this stuff and what it means. But it’s not actually that easy to transfer the core of this compulsion to another person who doesn’t precisely have it herself.

There was a time, not long ago, when I gave an ex a load of crap for shopping at Whole Foods because I thought it was elitest. She politely told me not eating poison had nothing to do with class. And so this is to say, I wasn’t always the convert I am today. But trying to identify when and how exactly I went from the chipped-shoulder type who bought the cheapest ground beef in a Grocery Store to save a few bucks to what I guess I am today is tough. I’m sure it was a series of moments (like the ex rightly putting me in my place) that got me here, but I wonder about the trajectory other eager local eaters followed. Anyone? anyone anyone.

All in the name of getting Rachael (and everyone else who sits down to eat with us on our wobbly table) fully on board…


21
Jun 08

Saturday in Union Sq | CSA shares still open

Our day began at the Growing Center* — a wee sweet spot on Vinyl St just outside the happening-place-even-in-the-face-of-a-public-works-disaster that is Union Sq. We go to the Growing Center every couple of weeks to use their compost bins. Here, at home, instead of throwing our food waste in the trash, we save it up in plastic bags in the freezer until they get unwieldy. I really want to start a worm bin in the basement instead, but this scares Darry a little and so I haven’t pushed it. If anyone reading this is interested in giving me some worm guidance on the DL, please write!

IMPORTANT THINGS we learned from Lisa at the Growing Center: they are selling pepper and tomato starter plants RIGHT NOW! Go there and buy them, please, and your money will be used by a very lovely cause.

Also, Farmer Dave is STILL selling a few more CSA shares for his East Somerville pick-up (every Wednesday). The shares don’t start until July 2, so if you join now, you haven’t missed any. Farmer Dave is in Dracut and he has a unique + cool feature with his shares — you can choose your own flavor of veggies: New England, Brazilian and Central American.

We also visited the Union Sq farmers’ market for more strawberries and sugar snap peas ($5.25 total). This is the only one I’ve been to in the Bostonish area that always features live music. It’s also the only one that is set up sort of the middle of a really ugly snarl of traffic, but in spite of that, it’s quite a lively and rather youngish crowd. Stillman’s is there with meat; Drumlin Farm is there with lots and lots of veggies; and something called B&R bread is there with delicious-looking stuff. Alas, we were low on cash and couldn’t sample the goods. If you’re familiar with it, do tell.

And now, I gotta eat lunch. Bread from Hi-Rise, cheese from Cabot, and a salad: spinach and kohlrabi from our CSA share, strawbs and peas from the market today. Painfully earnest, completely yummy.

*The Growing Center is on a generous (by city standards) piece of property that used to have part of the old middle school on it. After lots of political maneuvering by hearty volunteers about 10 years ago, it was preserved as open space and even as a sort of garden. City kids cultivate it with the help of city adults who make my heartache for southern Vt or western Mass not so achey. They have an open house every Saturday morning, if you are curious. They also have lots of family-style events over the summer.


4
Jun 08

A spectacularly amazing local summer meal

Three hours ago, a firetruck raced down our quiet street in Cambridgeville and I was sure it was because we had frightened the neighborhood while trying to make our grill, Smokey Joe, do magic tricks. The truck flew past our house however and we proceeded with our simple + sustainable feast. Several (local) beers later, I would like to enumerate the beauty.

1) Sweet Italian sausage from Lionette’s (in honor of Mr Gary Smith). Forgive the raw footage above. The pig comes from Ferrisburg, Vt, each week. The brave men at Lionette’s butcher the beast and make the sausage on site. It is like no sausage you have ever tasted. Price: $7ish for three.

2) Asparagus — our first of the season! — also from Lionette’s, but by way of a farm in Massachusetts, possibly Atlas in Deerfield. If you have never experienced young asparagus with a carcinogenic accent layer (aka grilled), it is important that you do someday soon. $5.50 / enough spears to serve three.

3) Ipswich Ale, original, from, of course, Ipswich, a wee nook on the North Shore. Bitter, pleasantly hoppy. Purchased at the United Market on Brookline + Putnam, our grocer around the corner. Ipswich Ale, you probably know, can be purchased in many places less special than the United Market and will be featured in our forthcoming pages on local brews e vinos. $9 for a sixer.

4) Strawberries. Darry picked these up at Lionette’s too. She thinks they were from CT, but can’t remember. We ate them plain and with our fingers for dessert, and herein lies a segue to plug the Strawberry Dessert Festival, an event from June 14-29th. Participating restaurants will serve local strawberry desserts + dishes that week and donate money to the Farmers’ Market federation. $4.25 for a pint.

Under $30, we ate, we fed our friend Rachael, we got reasonably tipsy and the coal is still burning.