When I was a kid on the Northern Shores of Boston, some combination of my father’s very loud and very large family gathered every Sunday at my grandparents’ house in Revere to share dinner, which was served, invariably, more like around lunch time.
The menu rarely strayed from: two pounds of pasta (DeCecco, produced in my family’s native region, Abruzzi, was preferred), Nana’s slow-brewing sauce and a large pile of meatballs, chicken, veal and sausage, all cooked in the sauce; a post-pasta salad dressed with olive oil and vinegar; post-salad fruit; post-fruit coffee and handmade pastries.
I thought for a long time that everyone did this. But when the tradition persisted into my adulthood, and other interests absorbed my time on Sundays, I figured out it was a relic; a privilege, in a way, but also a burden. Other recovering Italians will understand this, I think.
Nana, who is alone now, still makes Sunday dinner. Same menu, fewer people to feed. It is delicious, of course, and her sauce has a consistency that, I truly believe, only people born in her pocket of Italy can actually achieve.
The trouble is I escaped the North Shore, and was abducted by a troupe of good eaters in Western Mass and Southern VT. They taught me things that make me shudder about the origins of the thousands of meatballs I’ve consumed at Nana’s table; my palette now discerns a difference between her romaine and the greens I pick up the farmer’s market. I try to politely introduce these feelings and thoughts at Sunday, when I go, but mostly Nana just asks what’s wrong with me, and why I no longer like meatballs. Also, tangentially, she tells me I am tragically flat-chested.
Anyway. last Sunday, my mum and brother Marc bravely drove to Cambridge (people from the North Shore don’t often like to do this) and Darry and I served them our version of Nana’s menu. (PS, Nana knows nothing of this.) But here’s what our sustainable Sunday dinner looked like. I encourage you all to recreate it next week.
Fresh local egg pasta from Capone Foods (locations in Somerville + Cambridge; sold in specialty stores too. A-Mazing.)
My sauce: two cans of diced tomatoes, garlic, local onions; thyme and rosemary from our patio
A baguette from Hi-Rise
Salad: greens from Stillman’s (Cambridgeport farmers market); beet greens from our CSA; topped with goat cheese from Westfield Farm in Hubbardston Mass and PERFECT roasted beets from Drumlin
Strawberries and cherries from Drumlin Farm (Union Sq market); topped with ganache made from Taza chocolate
There is a very important metaphor in this posting; something about the old world origins of the Sunday dinner being corrupted by the new world and the reinvention of the corrupted version of the dinner, using old world-style grown and gathered materials. But I am burned by the sun tonight and far from being able to extrapolate it.
prego
