Preserving+canning


17
Jan 10

Eating locally in winter: It’s just not that hard. In fact, it’s possibly easier than eating locally in spring and early summer

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Kristi went to the Winter Farmer’s Market in Wayland yesterday. This is what it looks like there, in mid-January. An abundance of food, not just of the root variety, but fresh and green and vibrant, as well.

Sometimes in the spring and early summer, when the markets start up and the CSA starts rolling in, I experience this guilty sensation. I want to just dive into full-on local eating, but you can’t really eat greens, garlic scapes and strawberries for breakfast, lunch and dinner. It’s just not enough calories.

The nice thing about the deep winter is that you can count some serious local calories to be the backbone of a meal. Like potatoes, sweet potatoes, winter squashes, beets, turnips, kohlrabi. Then fresh and green things are welcome additions.

So I have a bone to pick with consumers and with farmers/infrastructure builders. Consumers: it is not difficult to buy 50lbs of potatoes (for example) and tuck them away in a reasonably potato-friendly spot in your home. Farmers/People with Resources and Power: It would be even better if YOU invested in root cellars and stored the food for us. Then we could be sure that our carrots and onions were well preserved. And we could get our asses out to you, or you could get our turnips to us here in the city. [Mental blip: Perhaps we need municipal root cellars.]

Last bit of this for everyone: It’s not hard to eat locally and well in the winter. With events like the Wayland Farmer’s Market, it doesn’t even require the advance planning or upfront capital of a winter CSA.


20
Dec 09

What we put by

veggies

I’m not going to lie: we’re feeling a little impressed with ourselves right now. We took the opportunity, on this first and perfect snow day, to assess how much food we have accumulated, frozen and canned over the summer and fall and to try to strategize about how best to make it last until next spring.We succeeded with the first task, but will happily take advice on the second. (Particularly: Rutabagas? We know nothing. Some of our carrots are a little damp. Is this OK? Is it a good thing?)

Here’s the final tally from our fridge, freezer, kitchen shelves and our foyer, which is very cold and very dark and serving as an excellent root cellar. The fruit and veggies herein came largely from our CSA through Red Fire Farm, which ended this week, and our winter CSA from Shared Harvest, which delivered three loads of mostly storage crop once a month, October, November and December. The rest came from assorted farmers’ markets, pick-your-own farms and our fish share through Cape Ann Fresh Catch.

In the fridge/foyer

• 50 lbs of potatoes
brightveggies• 15 lbs of carrots
• 15 heads of garlic
• 8 rutabagas
• 7 lbs of parsnips
• 5 butternut squash
• 4 celeriac
• 4 turnips
• 3 popcorn cobs
• 2 large red cabbage
• 1 pie pumpkin
• 1 large green cabbage
• 1/2 bushel of onion
• 1/2 bushel of sweet potatoes

What we* preserved

jars• 12 qts of dilly beans
• 8 qts pickled cukes
• 8 qts of peaches
• 4 qts pickled carrots
• 4 pints of pepper jelly
• 4 qts peach chutney
• 3 qts of tomatilloes
• 3 jam jars of ground cherry jam
• 3 qts of tomatoes
• 3 pints of simple syrup•
• 2 pints of mediterranean chutney
• 2 qts pickled peppers
• 2 qts applesauce
• 1 qt + 2 pints of salsa
• 1 qt of brined tomatoes

In the freezer

• 7 cod fillets
• 7 lbs of beef (the meat is from Stillman’s)
• 6 quarts of strawberries
• 5 quarts of blueberies
freezer• 5 lbs of spinach
• 4 qts applesauce
• 4 quarts of assorted hot peppers
• 1 qt garlic scape pesto
• 1 qt basil pesto
• 2 bags of green beans
• 2 qts of tomato sauce
• 2 pieces of mozzarella (from Fiore di Nonno)
• 2 lbs of cranberries (from Cranberry Hill)
• 1 quart of corn
• 1 qt of cod stock
• 1 chicken
• coupla smelts

Our preserving was rarely a solo act. We had generous support from Team Pickle.


13
Dec 09

Brilliant greens

bags

At one of the recent Shared Harvest Winter CSA distributions, where we are dutiful checker-inners and box movers, Gretta had some extra goodies for sale. But these smart people came early and bought ALL the kale. Something like 80 bunches.

This couple were there on behalf of their coop, where they live with 13 other people who have localvore sympathies. They planned to take all this home and process and freeze it for the coop’s use this winter.

img_0592They shared with us their plan to blanch the greens, then squeeze them into balls, freeze the balls on cookie sheets, then store the balls of greens in bags. We do this kind of flash freezing with all kinds of things (berries, ice cubes of pesto), but it had not crossed our minds to store greens this way. Brilliant.


28
Sep 09

Pepper jelly, at last

We have been collecting peppers for weeks now with the sweet memory of last fall’s pepper jelly in mind. A small jar was gifted to us from our friends, a woman called Michal and a man called Jay. They work and live at this very special farm that does sort of extraordinary stuff in Monterey, Mass. And they grew, to our great fortune, a handsome crop of jalapenos in their personal garden whence this jelly was born.

But it has been no easy task locating a proper recipe for our own. Surely, we could have asked Michal and Jay for theirs. (They used the preserving book referenced in Barbara Kingsolver’s Animal, Vegetable, Miracle — the name escapes me, but the proportions were all different and, more importantly, our pepper collection was all different.) Weimg_5452 found these bizarre recommendations on the interwubz, calling for 6 cups of sugar to every 1 cup of minced pepper (NO), others that encouraged the use of food coloring (WHY?) and approximately zero that offered flexible proportions in a pectin-free scenario (FUCK PECTIN). Seriously, people were preserving long before pectin was commercially produced. Plus, it costs money, its origins are mysterious and we had these perfect apples from Stillman’s in the kitchen — a natural source of pectin to use in its place.

In the end we pieced together our own recipe and are, presently, hoping for the best. Just an hour or so later, it appears to be setting.

Here’s what we did. You may do this too, but no guarantees.

Ingredients

  • Lots of bell peppers, of various colors and sizes. Once minced in our food processor, they totaled 4 cups
  • Minced habaneros (or anything hot, it seems) with the interior flesh and seeds removed — 1 cup (about 6)
  • 3 WHOLE apples (cores and all), sliced
  • 3 cups of sugar
  • 4 1/2 cups of white vinegar

Throw everything in a pot. Bring to a boil. Let it simmer (on medium heat) for about 25-30 minutes, or until the apple starts to fall apart. It will not look like jelly yet! Meanwhile, get the canner boiling, prep your jars. Pour the mix in when the jars are hot, seal ‘em and process for 10 minutes. These quantities filled nine 8 oz jars with a tiny bit leftover. It’s in our fridge now. It’s pretty friggin hot, but also delicious.

Editor’s note: be mindful of your hands when dealing with the hot peppers. If you neglect to use caution, you will surely regret it later, during an intimate moment with yourself or someone else.


28
Aug 09

We Can Together (Like a Bunch of Grandmas

peaches1(Nice peaches. And kitchen towel.)

We’ve been preserving together, and it’s been great. “We” as in random collections of friends who care to do such things. Collectively, we’ve done cucumber pickles, dilly beans, and peaches and tomatoes are on the horizon. So is some sort of tomatillo salsa.

Earlier this year we attended a screening of Our Daily Bread, and afterward Jamey Lionette spoke to an unusually contrary crowd about the whys and wherefores of local/sustainable eating. In response to someone’s question about why in the name of God they would dedicate themselves to such a laborious drudge-fest, he spoke about people getting together to put up food, and the gist of it was, “Hey, I’m not asking people to work more. I’m suggesting that they work less. All I’m advocating here are people spending time together, having a few beers and canning a few tomatoes.”

He’s right. Getting together makes it a party, every time.  And it makes it go SO fast.

Here’s some advice:

  • Get your shit together before this all goes down. Nothing kills the fun like not having enough new lids. Or jars. (Tags in Porter Square is the most reliable place we’ve found in the Cambridge/Somerville area for supplies.)
  • In pickling, be generous with garlic.
  • Beer should be cold and well-stocked, but there have been several instances of red wine and lemon soda on ice this month.
  • Dinner/Lunch should be a buffet of things like cheese, tomatoes, bread and pickles. All day snacking, plus your stove will be too busy to cook anything.
  • Get the canner boiling, like, the night before. They take forever to heat up and it’s no fun to be ready with everything else while you wait for the water bath to boil.
  • Assembly lines are a helpful concept.
  • We’ve gotten some bulk stuff through our CSA with Red Fire Farm, but ask your farmers at the markets around here for a good rate for and they are likely to give it. We scored $1 per pound peaches.

Please enjoy some scenes from the initial experiment in communal canning. Left to right: Team Pickle, Lunch, and Fin.

team-picklefoodpickles


24
Aug 09

Mediterranean chutney + eggplant smokes

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Very suddenly this week and perhaps like many other CSA shareholders, we found ourselves with a glut of eggplant. Armed with a copy of “Preserving Food Without Freezing or Canning,” we set out today to do something productive with it.

The result: five beautiful jars of Mediterranean Chutney.

More on that momentarily. But first, a word about eggplant. From The Wikipedia.

  • Eggplants are native to India.
  • 18th Century imperialists named them eggplants because the cultivars of the day were actually white and yellow and it was an aptronym. These days, of course, British imperialists call them aubergines. It is unclear why American imperialists have not caught on.
  • Eggplants are berries. Their seeds, you may have noticed, are quite bitter. That’s because they contain tobacco — Eggplants are close relatives of tobacco plants.
  • In fact, if you had 20lbs of eggplant you would have the same amount of nicotine as one cigarette. We have noted this for future preserving projects and/or smoking cessation drug patents.

Mediterranean Chutney is simple and unintimidating: an excellent gateway into preserving.

What you will need:

Tomatoes (we used about 10 San Marzanos purchased from Grateful Farm at the Cambridgeport Farmers’ Market)
An onion or two
An eggplant or three (we used 2 1/2 medium sized)
Three cloves of garlic, at least
A zucchini or two
1 cup of vinegar
1/3 cup of brown sugar
Salt, pepper, red pepper, tarragon, rosemary, oregano, whatever you have on hand
Canning jars and lids

What you do:

img_4988Wash and chop the veggies. Put them in a large saucepan with the spices and boil over low heat. When everything is soft and well blended (after about 40 minutes or so) add  the vinegar and brown sugar. You can keep it on the low heat until it looks like jam or until it’s more liquid-y. We gave it another 40 minutes or so, until it was somewhere inbetween.

Wash the jars and lids in boiling water. (We timed  this so they were still warm when we were ready to load them up with chutney.) Leave about a quarter-inch of space at the top of each jar when you’re filling them. Put on the lid and the band — and tighten them. Let them cool on a counter and then store them in the fridge.

The recipe we’re using says the flavor will improve with age, but it doesn’t indicate how long they’ll last. Fingers crossed.

Addendum

We nearly used this eggplant pickling recipe, posted on the interwubs by a Josephine Caravetta. Anyone with that many vowels in their name can surely be trusted and we may call on her next week. Please report back if you are inspired to try it.


16
Aug 09

An Experiment: Brined Tomatoes

img_4890We found this recipe in the book with the most irrepressable title ever: Preserving Food Without Freezing or Canning: Traditional Techniques Using Salt, Oil, Sugar, Alcohol, Vinegar, Drying, Cold Storage, and Lactic Fermentation. This is our first, experimental batch, with tomatoes from a roadside stand in Vermont where we just spent an amazing week.

Here’s what it says to do:

Make a brine (one-quarter cup salt to one quart of water), and bring it to a boil. Allow to cool. Choose firm tomatoes, preferably (‘Campbell’ variety, for example), wash and dry them carefully, and put them in glass jars. Pour in the cooled brine, up to one and a quarter inches below the rim, and fill in the remaining space with olive oil to cover. Close the jars airtight and store them in a cool place.

These tomatoes will keep for nine to ten months; use them for sauces.

So, if you don’t hear of any reported botulism cases in the greater Boston area between now and June, you’ll know that this is, indeed, a viable, inexpensive, quick, easy way to preserve tomatoes.


29
Jul 09

Ch-ch-ch-ch-ch-cherrrrry BOMB!!

Cadillac, Feathers and Tom Cruise sure know how to enjoy an Ambrosia Salad, but the recipe below is more my speed.

Cherry Bomb
As we quickly run out of room in our freezer, I’m pursuing other methods of storing food for the winter.
I was initially inspired by Pete Wells’ recipe, which I might still try later this summer. For today, I opted to make these very, very simple brandied cherries, which I hadn’t ever done. Here are some tips, should you find yourself at the farmer’s market wanting a few extra pounds of cherries to put up.

Currently, it looks like I murdered someone in our apartment. As the cherries tend to burst as you pit them, be sure to change out of any clothing you care about or put on an apron. Also be sure to be clear of white walls, cell phones and/or library books. WOOPS. I scrubbed for a good 20 minutes, but future tenants will just have to wonder if someone died or got funky with too much red wine, thus blaming it on the boogie. You are going to get MESSY. Granted, I smell quite lovely, but my hands have a ghosty sheen to them, worthy of the best zombers get-up.

Maybe get a cherry stoner? I’ll say that again, CHERRY STONER. Why one of these monsters hasn’t been given to me as a house-warming gift is beyond me. Maybe one of these little cuties can come home with me some day? ZOMG, somebody STOP me from buying this one!

The iconic Dana Hill Liquor store (we like to call it “Vegas Liquor”) on Mass Ave has a good deal on brandy right now. The proprietor told me that it was shipped to them by mistake, so get $16 and head over for a liter of E&J VSOP Superior Reserve. Not the best brandy in the world, but does the trick for our cherry-rific purposes.

Audrey Horne wasn’t the only Twin Peaks character into cherries, but damned if she wasn’t the sexiest one. I think maybe I’ll end all my blog stories with video…

BRANDIED CHERRIES
adapted from Cherry Home Companion.

It takes 6 weeks for results, but is well worth the effort.

cherries2 cups sugar
4 cups brandy
2 lbs. fresh sweet cherries, stemmed and pitted

1. Dissolve sugar in brandy in a sterilized 2–3-quart glass jar with a tight-fitting lid.
2. Add cherries.
3. Cover jar and allow cherries to macerate in the refrigerator for 6 weeks.
4. To serve, pour some of the brandy into a small glass and add a few cherries. Cherries will keep, refrigerated, for up to 1 year.


28
Jul 09

Pickling whatever you can get your hands on . . .

picklesProbably when you think of pickles you think of cucumbers, maybe peppers. But you can pickle everything.

Pickling can be a great way to put up all that produce coming from your CSA to be eaten later. One of my favorites is pickled okra, which is all over the place where I grew up in East Tennessee, but I don’t find it very much at farmers’ markets here. So sad, very little okra these days. For want of okra, I pickle green beans, yellow squash, radishes (all kinds including daikon), peppers, beets, carrots, cucumbers and then mixes of all of the above with onions and garlic. (Editor’s note: The way Sarah mixes vegetables and pickles the shit out of them is a revelation). I recently branched out into making relish from yellow squash, which turned out fabulously. Then there is also exciting wild fermentation and sauerkraut and kimchee, but that’s for another post and a better expert.

The thing about pickling that is too often lost is that it is SUPER easy. You don’t need any fancy kitchen equipment, and you aren’t going to die if it goes wrong somehow in the process. Worst case scenario, the texture and taste are off. But then you try again.

Here’s a good starter recipe for pickled green beans:

2 lbs. green beans (take any stems off but no need to trim the ends, cut off any mushy or brown parts)

Pack lengthwise in hot, squeaky clean jars (go ahead and boil the jars for a sec, or run them through the dishwasher)

Add to each jar:
1/4 tsp. cayenne pepper
1 clove garlic, whole
1 head of dill or 1 1/2 tbsp. dill seed
(The spices are the fun part. Increase the cayenne if you want, or the garlic. Or switch out the dill with something else, curry, celery seed, mustard seed, anything.)

Boil together:
2 1/2 c. water
2 1/2 c. vinegar
1/4 c. salt

Pour this over the beans in the jars, leaving about 1/4 of an inch at the top. Put the lids on, and put the jars into boiling water in the pot. Boil for about 15 minutes. Let them sit on the counter for about 30 minutes, or until you hear the seals pop. You know the jars are sealed when you push the center of the lid and it doesn’t pop back up. But don’t do this until they’ve been on the counter awhile. You want it to seal itself.

They’ll be ready to eat in a couple of weeks, or save them for the winter.

You will need the following stuff in the kitchen:

Canning jars with sealable lids (go to the hardware store and buy a case of the canning set—jars, lids, rings; you will use them all eventually, believe me)

A big pot—tall enough that you can put your jars of goodness in, the water covers them, and the water can boil without wreaking havoc

Something to put in the bottom of the pot to prevent the jars from sitting directly on the bottom (I use one of the steamers that folds in on itself, unfolded of course.)

Something to get the jars out of the boiling hot water with (I use tongs, sometimes a bit sketchy but no big disasters yet.)

(You can also go to the hardware store and buy a canning set up with pot, rack, funnel, etc. I have my own set up that works for me, but it does get pretty messy.)

You could use this recipe for any vegetable. Or switch to apple cider vinegar and sugar instead of salt for sweet pickles. The internet is very useful for unusual and creative pickling recipes, among other things.

I’d love to hear of other interesting recipes that people have. So please send them on!


22
Jul 09

Can Someone Do Me a Fava?!?!?

I can admit it: I’m a little obsessed with fava beans. While I was living in Spain, my co-worker/buddy would make me my favorite dish when I was grumpy. Known as “habas con jamon y huevos,” it is an amazing combo that I’ve never seen someone NOT enjoy. Although, apparently some people have a genetic disorder called “favism” that results from eating them…

Fava Beans

Having never eaten fresh fava beans (we used frozen in Spain), I jumped at the chance to re-create the dish while at the farmer’s market. I bought a few pounds from Parker Farms and then swung by Savenor’s on my trusty bici to get the coveted Jamon Serrano. With eggs from Austin Brothers Valley Farm and onions and garlic from my Red Fire Farm CSA, this was guaranteed to be an awesome meal. [The only thing missing was authentic Spanish olive oil, which truly can’t be beat, but that’s a blog story for another day.] The desired result was even better than I remembered.

I have since returned to buy almost 30 pounds of fresh fava beans for freezing purposes, from Parker Farms and Drumlin Farms. Fava beans are only around for two or three weeks a year from what I understand, so I may have gone a little overboard, especially given the tiny freezer in my apartment. For freezing purposes, you need simply to shuck the beans, parboil for two to three minutes, dunk them in cold water to cool them off, drain, lay them out in a single layer, freeze through, then bag them up! You’ll have to shuck them out of their giant pods and THEN peel the outer layer off of each bean to actually cook them for eating right away (or after defrosting later). I recommend watching an episode of Alfred Hitchcock Presents on Hulu while shucking. A friend is certainly helpful, too…

 
HABAS CON JAMON Y HUEVOS

NOTE: I don’t really do measurements for certain recipes. If you like something more than something else, use more of it. If you want the ham to egg ratio to be 5:1, have at it, I say.

  • 1 pound shucked/peeled fava beans (this is about 2 pounds of whole fresh fava beans)
  • Small piece of Jamon Serrano, slice should be ¼ to ½ inch thick, cubed [DO NOT TRIM THE FAT!!!
  • Eggs
  • Onion
  • Garlic
  • Olive Oil
  • Salt/pepper
  • Love (you should always have this on hand and always use it)
  1. Fry onion and garlic in olive oil for a few minutes, taking care not to brown the garlic.
  2. Toss in the ham and let the fat melt. Toss in the fava beans and continue frying until the beans just start to brown and the onions start to caramelize and the ham gets a bit crispy, but not too crispy.
  3. Make little wells within the mixture and crack an egg into each one. Fry the eggs until desired level of eggness. Putting a lid over the frying pan will help to cook the tops of the eggs, rather than attempting to flip them.

I find that this meal works for breakfast, lunch, dinner, snack, whatever, and is quite filling. Or enjoy with a nice Chianti, as Hannibal Lecter recommends.

Happy eating!!